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Montsuki (紋付)

A kimono made of black cloth bearing five crests dyed white. The formal Japanese style of male garment is a piece of montsuki with a divided skirt (hakama): together these make up a set called "montsuki hakama." In Noh plays, kōken (assistants), jiutai (singers) and hayashikata (musicians) appear on stage in montsuki hakama, or sometimes in the more formal style of kamishimo or naga-kamishimo. They also wear montsuki hakama in the gakuya, or dressing room. Depending on the season, they choose one of the two different types of montsuki: awase (lined) or hitoe (unlined). Materials such as smooth silk, silk gauze and linen are used, but trainees may wear ones made of pongee. Elderly performers and minors often wear coloured montsuki, white, grey or navy collars for the undergarments, although some people say that white should be used only by those of high rank. The haori coat is not used on stage.

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