A kimono is used as a high-class formal dress by kōken, jiutai and hayashikata, depending on the program or the selected piece. A sleeveless robe and a pair of hakama trousers made of the same dyed fabric (mostly with patterns) are worn on montsuki. The family crest is added on the back and the breasts of the robe, as well as on the waist of the skirt. Hakama trousers fall into two types: one of normal length (hanbakama or kiribakama) and one with trailing hems (nagabakama). These days, most kamishimo are made of silk, but the formal material is basically linen. Most performers choose light blue, but older people sometimes use brown ones. In the Muromachi era, the sleeveless robe (kataginu) was considered informal dress because it was based on suō, with the broad sleeves removed. In the Edo era, a suit of kataginu and hanbakama (han-kamishimo) became the uniform of regular samurai, while a suit with nagabakama (naga-kamishimo) became the formal dress of higher-ranking samurai when they were in the shogun's palace.
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