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Kataginu (肩衣)

A sleeveless robe with pointed shoulders. As a stage costume, it is frequently used for kyōgen plays. It is also known as "kyōgen kataginu" and worn mainly by the characters of common people, including the servant Taro Kaja; for higher ranks, a suit of Kataginu and a pair of long Hakama trousers made of the same dyed fabric (naga-kamishimo) is worn. The fabric is mostly linen. When kōken, jiutai and Hayashikata need more formal clothing than montsuki hakama, they wear Kamishimo (or naga-kamishimo), which is a suit of Kataginu and hanbakama or nagabakama made of the same dyed fabric. Silk is mostly used these days, but the formal material is basically linen. The sleeveless robe was considered informal dress in the Muromachi era because it was based on suō, with the broad sleeves removed. In the Edo era, a suit of Kataginu and hanbakama (han-kamishimo) became the uniform of regular samurai, while a suit with nagabakama (naga-kamishimo) became the formal dress of higher-ranking samurai when they were in the shogun's palace.

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