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Moyō-ōkuchi (模様大口)

The abbreviated name for ōkuchi hakama (hakama trousers with broad turn-ups) is ōkuchi. These are usually white (shiro-ōkuchi) or coloured (iro-ōkuchi), but both are made with plainly woven cloth. Meanwhile, those with patterns are called “mon-ōkuchi” or “moyō-ōkuchi”. At first glance, these look similar to “hangire”. While hangire are suitable for dynamic roles such as demon gods and warlords, with numerous large and flamboyant patterns made of gold brocade and other fabrics, many mon-ōkuchi have designs suitable for graceful women or noblemen. Also, the back of hangire is made taut with a tatami mat cord, while that of ōkuchi is made tight with a thick rib weave.

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